Egg-based dishes in town: An ovoid view of St Andrews

Fulfilling her bucket list plan of writing for the Saint before she graduates, Helena Heald takes a quirky look at everything egg-related in St Andrews.

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North Point American Brunch / Photo: Helena Heald

I’m not eggspert, but…

Brunch. It’s what all the cool kids are doing these days, right? And the golden star of all brunch options: the humble egg. This versatile protein bomb is oh so easy to cook, but just enough faff to get just right that going out for eggs feels like an extravagant treat. Thankfully for fellow friends of the egg, our quail-sized town provides many great dining options. Anyone can do a basic eggs benedict or an egg on some kind of toast (looking at you, Cottage Kitchen and Mitchell’s); what I seek is something a little more egg-citing. I begin my egg quest at Bibi’s, a go-to for me as a place to take visiting friends to show off St Andrews. Out of seven brunch options, five are egg based a strong commitment to eggy goodness. I tried “Bibi’s Ultimate Stack”, a very meaty take on an eggs benedict. One muffin stacked with haggis, chorizo, a perfectly poached egg and hollandaise, the other muffin its delicious fraternal twin with black pudding and bacon. A real treat for £7.95, and somehow my first haggis experience (a pretty good first time). Unfortunately, the delicious meats rather overpowered the hollandaise, which was a bit bland.

Next: North Point. Another St Andrews brunch fave, and another classic on my “here’s the best of St Andrews, thanks for coming all this way to visit me” tour. It felt morally perverse to enter the café not in search of pancakes, but eggs were my quarry. Fortunately, pancakes were what I found, since the only eggs on offer were of a scrambled variety and came as an addition to other dishes. I took a crack at the “North Point American Brunch”, a very reasonable £5.70 for pancakes, bacon, syrup, and of course, eggs. These were decidedly upper tier scrambled eggs (breakfasts in halls have set my standards very low for scrambles), solid but not rubbery. The pancakes and bacon were of course fabulous this is what North Point excels at. The eggs made an interesting addition, but they were far from the lead actor in this show. Scrambled eggs with maple syrup, however, are a surprisingly Good Thing, by the way.

Meanwhile at The Vic, brunch is not all day but 10 am-2 pm, which obviously just means high-speed egg enjoyment. The eggs are indeed pretty enjoyable, with the millennial-pleasing “Eggs a la Vic” (£8) a strong contender for most interesting innovation on the eggs benedict formula. This consists of a poached egg on a muffin with chorizo, avocado, and sriracha hollandaise sauce it’s pretty darn good. While “Eggs a la Vic” is an exciting choice (and the addition of avocado makes it functionally a salad, right?), it is not my favourite St Andrews egg. That accolade belongs to the St Andrews Waffle Company, who are generally my favourite eatery in St Andrews. I’m not affiliated with them by the way, but if they do want to pay me in waffles for exposure, I wouldn’t say no. If you’ve not experienced their waffley joy, please do, you deserve it. Their delicious Belgian Liege waffles contain egg anyway, so they’re already off to a great start. Their brunch menu is all-day, and technically just includes a range of meat + sauce + waffle combinations. Their main menu, however, is where golden treasure is found. Along with a variety of mildly intimidating (but very exciting) options served on savoury waffles (maybe one day I’ll try “Is It A Pizza”), they offer a selection of eggy goodness. As well as boiled egg and waffley soldiers, they offer the standard range of eggs benedict variations (standard, Florentine, Royale: £6.95-£8.45). Their hollandaise is perfect, just sharp enough flavour, and thick enough that it sits beautifully in the waffle dents. It’s served with an extra pot of sauce on the side, because hollandaise is great (please bury me in it). Their crispy bacon is on point, and the egg over it is always perfectly runny. And it’s all on a lovely waffle, which is somehow infinitely more exciting than a dry old muffin. This praise is not excessive, they’re really that good. Unless you’re vegan, I suppose; in which case, I am very sorry for your loss.

North Point American Brunch / Photo: Helena Heald
Bibi’s Ultimate Snack / Photo: Helena Heald

So that’s all of my favourite eggs in one basket. Bonus shout outs to Minick the butcher, for doing really fancy scotch eggs to take home (I had one with chorizo mixed in, perfection), and also to Innis and Gunn Beer Kitchen, who offer a lovely hot scotch egg in a beer sauce. Scotch eggs are a whole other field of egg research, and therefore cannot be truly counted in a discussion of brunch eggs. Please contact me if there are any good eggs I have tragically missed, I can be reached via summoning circle of hollandaise sauce (or email, I suppose).

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