Bursting the Bubble: Anstruther

George Wilder seeks out an escape from The Bubble right on St Andrews' doorstep.


Our Bursting the Bubble articles thus far have taken us rather far afield from our small Scottish town. Even Edinburgh’s distance builds up if you require a bus to Leuchars, train, and tram to reach your location. Happily one can find a break from The Bubble even closer to home, with a range of options lying just a short way down the coast. Admittedly, at first ‘escaping’ from St Andrews to go to another coastal town seems slightly counter-productive. It is in some ways rather like making the effort to get out of North Korea only to find yourself in Stalin’s Russia: not exactly ideal.

Yet, on this occasion the counter-intuitive is your friend, as are the range of buses that allow a double-decker journey down the Fife coast. Looking across the sea I swallow deeply as we pass Kinkell Byre, trying to block both troubling memories and a strange lack of them. We drive through Crail, which hosts a large tourist trade every year due to it’s walks and pub culture. However, Crail was not to be my location on this particular occasion. I craved  something just slightly further afield, something I found in Anstruther.


To any visitor of Anstruther there are a number of certainties, fish and chips being one. As one of the most renowned fish and chip shops in the UK the Anstruther Fish Bar is pure pleasure.For the cultured amongst you a range of smugglers ruins and local galleries will keep you busy until evening. While those who fancy jumping into a pint regardless of the time will find themselves equally well catered for. A short stroll near the seafront will present any visitor with quintessential yet tasteful pubs. After fog enters your vision and your bed begins to call you can return to one of the many B&B’s that fill the town, opting for a view of the sea or town that brings a morning not even a hangover can dampen.


  1. The Murray Hostel is right up Shore Street from the Anstruther Fish Bar. A good evening out is a fish supper at the AFB, a beer (or four) at one of the pubs on or near Shore Street near the AFB such as the Ship (right next door), the Boathouse, the Waterfront, or the Royal Hotel (around the corner on Rodger Street) and then tucking into a comfy night’s sleep at the Murray Hostel. An easy-going, affordable, very student-friendly way to visit Anstruther and the East Neuk.


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