Is it Spring or Winter?


By Ruby Munson-Hirst

With October now fully in swing, fashion’s favourite month is over and Vogue can breath a sigh of relief with a return to average size issues. Fashion Weeks’ September bombardment of our visual senses is honestly quite overwhelming. And there is something strangely disorientating about seeing the S/S collections for next year, when I’m only just getting used to the mannish bulk of my shearling Aviator jacket. On first sighting of THE jacket of the season… some eight months ago in Burberry’s a/w (2010) show in February, I knew I’d have to wait a while to get my high-street version, unless of course I wanted to donate my entire student loan to the Christopher Bailey empire.

So I did wait. And six months later, I teamed my leather and shearling prized-possession with a flimsy summer dress, in an attempt to get my wear out of it… with the summer still looming though, I was boiling hot and had to relent and face the reality that I’d have to wait another month for the (now seven-month-seen) jacket to be worn.

What I’m getting at here is the effect of the premature fashion weeks’ ability to make the average follower feel totally outdated by the time they’ve got their high-street copy on. The S/S collections of this September generated an onslaught of colour blocking, lace, prints, chiffon, leather, but still in sharp cuts, as masterly illustrated by Celine in Paris – all beautiful but slightly out of context as I view the show from under a duvet in my freezing cold room. That said, regardless of where we are in the real world, compared to what season the fashion world is offering, some things remain on my wish list, and I don’t care when I get one.

I’m still reeling over Marc Jacobs’ creations for Louis Vuitton A/W 2010. This collection clearly demonstrated Jacobs’ exceptional understanding of the female form and how best to frame. Perhaps more significant though, is his purposeful and unashamed choice of designs that point directly back to 1950’s refined glamour. In doing this, Jacobs redefines the kind of women deemed acceptable on the catwalk, whilst also acknowledging fashion’s continual debt to the past. How refreshing it was to see more Rubenesque models, whose curves were purposefully put on show through pinching waists and unexpectedly low hemlines. By still talking about a collection that is approaching 8 months old, fashion’s alluring unavailability is made clear… but then again, isn’t it just that sense of being left wanting more, that keeps us looking, waiting and then, finally, buying?


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